1999 Honda Accord 3.0 V6

How to remove oil pan which was previously re-sealed with Permatex "Right Stuff" (black)

3-17-2019
revised 3-18-2019 (minor tweaks)


I previously re-sealed the oil pan with Right Stuff, never intending to remove it again. The engine still had a leak from the gasket near the top, behind the front oil pump plate. The oil pan must be removed to remove the front plate to re-seal it. It is best to do this in conjunction with a timinig belt job, since the timing belt parts must be removed to remove the front plate. If anyone has tried to remove a part sealed with Right Stuff, you know how difficult it is.


Method:

With all the pan bolts removed, it is next to impossible to separate the pan by prying or tapping a thin blade between the mating surfaces. There is a gap in the back of the pan near the flywheel, and a bump on the pan casting which is stout enough to leverage the pan loose. I machined the edge of a small square of 5/16" steel plate to fit into the gap, using the edge of the engine block as a fulcrum, and applied pressure to the plate with a bottle jack. The weight of the motor was sufficient to apply enough force to pop the seal loose.


Oil Leak Behind Front Plate:

Oil pan, timing belt, tensioner, and idler pulley's must be removed to remove front plate

Additional Leak Source Behind Oil Filter/Vtec Casting:


Misc.:

Homemade crank pulley/harmonic balancer holder tool for torquing to 181 ft-lb. (Crank bolt removal is easily done without the tool, by bracing a breaker bar against the chassis and briefly cranking the starter.)


When re-installing the power steering pump, the adjustment bolt has a tendancy to push away. There is a groove in the bolt when it is pushed all the way into position. Placing an o-ring in the groove will keep the bolt in place to make installing the pump easier (looking down from passenger side fender).


Additional Misc.: Possible method for removing "glued" Porsche 928 oil pan using an all-thread coupler and bolt as a jackscrew:


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